Upolu

Although the smaller of Samoa's two main islands, the sultry, verdant island of Upolu is home to more than 70 per cent of the population and the commercial centre of the country with the major town of Apia and Faleolo International Airport.

From the lush rainforest of the volcanic mountain range that runs down the spine of Upolu like a dorsal fin to its picture perfect palm fringed beaches, the vibrant nightlife of Apia and the fa'a Samoa (Samoan) way-of-life, this remarkable island offers a unique holiday experience.

Upolu's highlights include Robert Louis Stevenson's former home Vailima, now a museum, and burial site at Mt. Vaea, Apiathe Tiavi Falls, the Piula Cave Pool and O Le Pupu-Pue National Park.

Travelling around Upolu is easy by bus or hire car with relatively good roads and some of the South Pacific's best beaches at Lepa and Aleipata.

For surfers, Upolu's north coast offers beaches such as Lauli'i with its long right point break and waves that crash onto a back-sand beach uninterrupted by a barrier reef and for the more adventurous, the right-handed reef break at Faleapuna (best in Summer from December to March).

In Apia gracefully decaying churches and trading companies still line the waterfront almost like a movie set despite the larger more modern office buildings that have been built in more times.

In the evening it's not uncommon to still see teams of men paddling outrigger racing canoes on the harbour.

Hotels range from budget back-packer style in Apia and open-sided beach fales to good value moderate hotels and deluxe class resorts.

Upolu is also the place to experience a Samoan fia fia where Polynesian dancing on stage comes with a buffet dinner of local foods at Aggie Grey's Hotel and the Kitano Samoa Hotel.